People come to Humboldt County for the redwoods and stay because of everything else. The old-growth forests of Redwood National Park are reason enough to make the trip, but the region's two most distinctive towns — Eureka and Ferndale — reward visitors who look beyond the trees.
We've been fitting the feet of Humboldt residents and visitors for years. We know what the terrain demands. And we know that more than a few tourists have cut a trip short because they showed up in the wrong shoes. Consider this our guide to doing Humboldt right.
Eureka: California's Largest Victorian City
Eureka is the county seat and the region's commercial center, and it's more interesting than that description suggests.
Old Town Eureka
The historic district anchored by 2nd and 3rd Streets is one of the most intact Victorian commercial districts in California. The Carson Mansion — a 1886 Queen Anne Victorian that's been called the most photographed house in America — is here. The Blue Ox Millworks, a working Victorian-era millworks that produces handmade gingerbread trim, offers tours.
Practical note: Old Town's streets include original brick paving in places. Beautiful, but uneven. If you're planning a serious exploration of Old Town, you need stable footwear with good outsoles. We've seen people in flip flops have genuinely bad days on the brick.
The Waterfront
Eureka sits on Humboldt Bay — the second largest bay on California's coast — and the waterfront walkway is one of the great free experiences in the region. The boardwalk runs past fishing boats, the historic Eureka Inn area, and offers views of the bay and surrounding hills.
The waterfront is flat and well-maintained, but the Pacific winds can be serious. Bring layers.
Sequoia Park
The oldest municipal zoo west of the Mississippi is in Eureka, surrounded by a free public park anchored by old-growth redwoods. Yes, you can stand among genuine 300-foot trees for free, in a city park, five minutes from downtown. It still surprises people.
Where to Eat in Eureka
- Restaurant 301 at the Carter House Inn: The region's finest dining. Book ahead.
- Café Waterfront: Seafood with bay views. The Dungeness crab is the answer to any question.
- Los Bagels: Yes, bagels. Humboldt's own, with a devoted local following for good reason.
- Brick & Fire Bistro: Wood-fired pizza and local ingredients. Consistently excellent.
- Ramone's Bakery & Café: Breakfast and lunch from a beloved local institution.
Ferndale: The Victorian Village
Ferndale is one of California's only fully intact Victorian towns. The entire downtown is a California Historical Landmark. The buildings on Main Street were constructed in the 1870s–1890s and have been maintained and preserved rather than replaced.
The scale of the place is part of what makes it special: it's small enough to walk completely in an afternoon, but dense enough in interest to keep you engaged. The painted ladies (houses painted in multiple Victorian colors to highlight architectural details) are extraordinary.
Main Street
Ferndale's Main Street is genuinely the main street — a working commercial district where locally-owned shops and restaurants coexist with the historic buildings. The creamery, the hardware store, the bookshop, the galleries — they're all still there, which is not something you can say about most American small towns.
Practical note: Main Street is relatively flat, but the surrounding neighborhood streets climb sharply. If you want to see the full Victorian residential district, bring shoes with solid grip and support.
Ferndale Museum
A small but excellent local history museum that tells the story of Ferndale's dairy farming heritage, the earthquake history of the region, and the Victorian-era settlement. Worth an hour.
Golden Gait Mercantile
A Victorian-era store that sells (among other things) the most comprehensive collection of taffy flavors on the North Coast. A genuine local institution.
Where to Eat in Ferndale
- Curley's Grill: The Main Street institution. American food done well.
- Hotel Ivanhoe: Ferndale's historic hotel with a saloon and restaurant that matches the Victorian surroundings.
- Poppa Joe's: Breakfast and lunch, beloved by locals.
The Greater Humboldt Experience
Redwood National & State Parks
The combination of federal and state parks protecting old-growth redwoods extends from south of Eureka to the Oregon border. Key experiences:
- Avenue of the Giants: 31 miles of highway through old-growth forest. Even from a car window, these trees redefine your sense of scale.
- Tall Trees Grove: The remote grove that contains some of the world's tallest trees. Permit required, limited access — which means it's uncrowded.
- Prairie Creek Redwoods: Elk Prairie, where a herd of Roosevelt elk grazes among the trees, and Fern Canyon, where vertical walls of fern make you feel like you've walked onto a Jurassic Park set.
- Lady Bird Johnson Grove: An accessible loop trail through old-growth forest. The flat 1.4-mile loop is manageable for most fitness levels.
Footwear for the redwoods: The trails vary significantly. Lady Bird Johnson Grove is packed gravel — almost anything works. Prairie Creek's Fern Canyon involves water crossings. The more remote trails involve roots, uneven terrain, and significant elevation. Plan accordingly.
Lost Coast
The roadless stretch of coastline from Petrolia to Shelter Cove is one of the wildest coastal wilderness areas in California. The Lost Coast Trail is a 25-mile backpacking route along the beach — one of the great California outdoor experiences for those with time and preparation.
Footwear reality check: The Lost Coast Trail involves miles of walking on loose rock and sand. Standard trail running shoes or hiking shoes are not enough. You need proper waterproof hiking boots with ankle support and aggressive tread.
Trinidad
The small coastal community north of Eureka is one of California's most picturesque fishing towns. The harbor, the dramatic headland, the sea stacks, and the beaches make it worth an afternoon. Patrick's Point State Park is nearby and worth adding to any trip.
Practical Visitor Notes
The weather: Humboldt County's marine climate means fog and cool temperatures are normal even in summer. The average summer high in Eureka is 64°F. Pack layers regardless of what month you're visiting.
The terrain diversity: You can go from a Victorian brick street to a beach to an old-growth forest trail in the same afternoon. This is wonderful, but it means your footwear needs to be versatile — or you need to carry options.
The pace: Humboldt does not rush. The culture here genuinely appreciates slowness and presence. Embrace it. The best experiences come from the second cup of coffee on a downtown bench, not from trying to see everything in a day.
We'd love to see you in our stores in Eureka or Ferndale during your visit. If you need footwear for the trail, the Victorian streets, or just comfortable walking shoes for a long weekend of exploration, we're the right place to start.
615 5th Street, Eureka · 430 Main Street, Ferndale